NGH Engines GT9 9cc gasoline engine with electonic ignition
Out of Stock
NGH is a Chinese Manufacturer of very high quality small gasoline engines. Converting from glow to gas for smaller planes is now very feasible. The engines have been in existence for a few years and have been proven winners.
The GT9 is a 9cc, .52 cu in gas engine which is light weight and very powerful. It can be used on .40 to .52 sized airplanes normally using glow engines.
The GT9 is more reliable due to the spark plug instead of glow plug. It uses a 10x6 to 12x6 prop.
It weighs just over a pound including an IBEF (sold separately) to power the ignition.
NEEDLE VALVE SETTINGS OF THE NGH 9cc
|Engine Type:||Gasoline Two-stroke, Air Cooled, Rotary Valve|
|Cylinder Type:||Precision Steel Sleeve|
|Crank Type:||Forged Dual Ball Bearing Support|
|Mounting Type:||Beam or Rail Mount|
|Carburetor Type:||NGH Proprietary Micro|
|Crankshaft Threads:||1/4"- 28 TPI|
|Mounting Dimensions:||Owners Manual or Website|
|Ignition:||RCEXL 1/4-32 90 Degree Single Cylinder|
|Spark Plug Type:||1/4" X 32 TPI|
|Engine+ Muffler+ Ignition (Total Weight):||1 lb. 3 oz. (545 g)|
|Ignition:||4.8 – 6v *Battery Information|
||10x6 to 12x6|
|Fuel:||Unleaded Gasoline With High-Quality Two-Cycle Oil, Pre- Mixed|
|Pre-Mix Oil Ratio and Type:||Synthetic Break-in with 20:1, General 25:1, for Air Cooled Engines|
- 3.02 MB
- 333 K
- 110 KB
In order to keep the carburetor very compact, the carb is in 2 parts. The part which pumps the fuel is a separate part which uses crankcase pressure to pulse a diaphragm which actuates the pump. In the diagram the pumping mechanism is mounted on the back of the engine using a bracket, however this pump can be mounted anywhere that is best. Since the carb is more compact it usually does not interfere with the cowl.
NEEDLE VALVE SETTINGS OF THE NGH 9cc
The needle valve settings of this small gasoline engine carb is different than that of glow fuel engine carbs. The needle valve settings are very tight. Just one click one way or another makes a huge different. Unlike glow engines where you lean the needle valve until you achieve the peak rpm and then back off 1/8 turn or more, one click makes a larger difference.
The advantage to gas engines is that once the needle valves are set properly, they typically are never changed again. You don’t have to change it each day based on environmental conditions, fuel type or glow plug condition. Gas engines run the same except at extreme altitude changes. So do not constantly tweak the needle valves.
Dirt plays havoc with these very fine needle valves. Use of a fuel filter is mandatory. Gas engines have ½ the fuel flow of a glow engine, so the clearances are much smaller to allow less fuel past the needle valve. A little spec of dirt will have drastic effects on the engine.
We found that an electric starter is very usefol. Starting by hand flipping is possible, but not reliable. Use a small electric starter like the ones used for small glow engines.
The engine may run better if the fuel pump is not mounted to the engine due to vibration. Remotely mounting the fuel pump is best, but keep the distance from the pump to the carb as small as possible.
Refer to the exploded view of the carb in the manual.
- Set the needle valves. They may not be adjusted at the factory. The low speed needle valve is the small screw in the center of the control arm for the throttle just like some glow engines. Low is 1 turn out, High is 1.5 turns out.
- Choke the engine with the ignition off, and hand flip until fuel is visible to the carb. Hand flipping is best to avoid flooding the engine and possible damage.
- Set the throttle to about ¼ open or less. Turn on ignition. Using an electric starter, start the engine. Adjust the high speed needle up or down a few clicks if necessary to get it started.
- Adjust the high speed needle valve (#2) to get a steady high speed. Then back off a click or two to make the engine just slightly rich.
- Pick up the plane by the wing and tail and point it skyward as you woold a glow engine to be sure that it does not go overly lean. Adjust the high speed needle valve as necessary to avoid an overly lean condition.
- Adjust the low speed needle by closing the throttle a little at a time and adjusting the needle valve for good running and good acceleration similar to a glow engine.
If you have problems later on after experiencing success, it coold be due to dirt or problems with the carb or pump. Before simply replacing the carb or pump, disassemble them and check that they are working properly.
- The side with one screw – Remove the one screw and clean as necessary. This is unlikely to be the problem. It is the pump.
- The side with 4 screws – Remove the 4 screws and inspect and clean. This is more likely to be the problem. This is the fuel flow regulator. This has a similar function to the needle valve – it regolates fuel – but at a higher rate than the engine requires. There is a rocker arm, spring and float. Make sure that the rocker arm moves up and down freely by pressing on it with your finger. If not, clean it and get it to move freely. If you can’t replace the entire pump unit. Make sure that all the holes in the pump are clear. Blow compressed air onto it to clean it. Reassemble.
Fuel-delivery-system: this KEY is solving the fuel-transition.
- Connect the system correctly based on the manual. as possible as near to carb and avoid higher-vibration. try to install it repeatedly to find a best place and retain it.
- turn the engine to check if the fuel into carb from tank via system.
- If the fuel into carb with flood, this is a just issue for this, please do learn the system first, the fuel-delivery-system = pump + regulator.
Learn how to check and solve the system's issue: the main issue is fuel into carb with flood.
The working principle of the regulator is: the little floater need move smoothly inside the little hole with upward and downward, the fuel pass via this passageway and the floater can block it and open it let the fuel pass and control the flow-rate, this is function of this regulator.
- one side with one screw: this side is pump, always this side is no problem. clean it. and reassemble it.
- one side with four-screws: this side is regulator. open it, we can see a rocker arm, there are two parts under the rocker arm, one side is a spring, one side is a floater. push the spring and check if the spring can get a smooth springback, push the rocker arm to check if the floater can move smooth inside the little hole. clean it and reassemble it, it is ok.
but If fuel is dirty or something block this passageway, the floater will not work well to control the fuel pass with a suitable rate. and then the fuel into carb with flood.
Walbro carb always like this in factory, so we always need open it and clean it. it is ok.
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WARNING - Gasoline and Turbine powered R/C model aircraft are not manufactured to withstand unlimited G's. Any R/C model aircraft can fail, be it a wing folding up or a fuselage breaking in half under too high of a load. Just as any full size aircraft, model R/C aircraft have a maximum G rating. Because you are not in the plane flying it and experiencing the G's and reading the G-meter, it is more difficult to judge the G's on the aircraft, and it is very easy to exceed the limits of the aircraft. Understand that if you perform a snap roll, parachute, wall, blender, knife edge loop, or pull hard on the elevator at almost any speed, you can be putting in excess of 15 G's, even in excess of 30 G's, and most aircraft can only designed to take 10-12 G's. If you perform any violent maneuver, you can break your plane. When I perform hard maneuvers, especially for the first time on an airframe, I am prepared for a failure and am prepared for it as best I can be. This mainly includes performing the maneuver far enough away from spectators that in event of a failure that I am not endangering others. In addition, be prepared for the manufacturer to not pay for a new airframe which is broken during flight. It is common practice for any manufacturer to not replace an airframe which breaks in the air or upon landing. I have only seen manufacturers replace airframes when they have received many of the same failures and the manufacturer determines that there was a design or manufacturing error. If you break an airframe, and you are the only one to do so, then it is probably not the fault of the manufacturer. Please fly safely, and avoid full throttle operation other than at low airspeeds.
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