Biela 18x10 3-Blade Carbon Fiber Semi Scale Propeller, Black with Yellow Tips
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Biela 18x10 3-Blade Carbon Fiber Semi Scale Propeller, Black with Yellow Tips

Out of Stock
Item# (BP1810-3BYSCALE)


  • Overview

Biela produces what we feel are the finest propellers in the world. They are hand made using the highest quality carbon fiber, fiberglass and epoxy that Europe has to offer. Kevlar roving is used for extra strength for propellers 30 and larger. The hub is end grain hardwood which greatly resists crushing. The hub is covered front and back with CF so you cannot notice that it has the hardwood core until you drill it. The blades are hollow and the tips are solid. These have been the best for endurance. The hollow blades are filled with small amounts of epoxy for balancing. All the props are factory balanced. Biela propellers are rated at 8,000 rpm.

Biela has 2 typical color schemes: White with red tips on the front with black on the back and they also offer black with yellow tips on the front and all black on the back. Some of these have scale markings on them. They are all painted and very beautiful. The 3 and the 4 blade propellers are truly exquisite works of art. We put them on our office walls for decoration!

Biela 3 and 4 blade props are very efficient. They are not quite as efficient as 2-blade props, but they are very close and very scale. We sell more 3 and 4 blade props than 2-blade. You will enjoy Biela props immensely.

181035-40cc5.4 oz
5.4 oz

Prop Chart for 2-stroke Glow Engines
Engine Size Break-in Prop Propeller Choices
.90 - .91 14x6 13x8, 15x6, 16x5
1.08 16x6 15x8, 18x5
1.20 16x8 16x10, 18x5, 18x6
1.50 18x6 18x8, 20x6
1.80 18x8 18x10, 20x6, 20x8, 22x6
2.00 20x8 18x10, 20x6, 20x10, 22x6

Prop Chart for 4-stroke Glow Engines
Engine Size Break-in Prop Propeller Choices
.90 14x6 13x6, 14x8, 15x6, 16x6
1.20 16x6 14x8, 15x6, 15x8, 16x8, 17x6, 18x5, 18x6
1.60 18x6 15x6, 15x8, 16x8, 18x6, 18x8, 20x6
2.40 18x10 18x12, 20x8, 20x10
2.70 20x8 18x10, 18x12, 20x10
3.00 20x10 18x12, 20x10

Prop Chart for 2-stroke Gas Engines
Engine Size Break-in Prop 2 Bladed Propeller Choices  3 Bladed Propeller Choices  4 Bladed Propeller Choices
17cc 14x6 13x6, 14x7 NA NA
20cc 16x8 15x10, 16x10, 17x8 NA NA
26cc-28cc 17x8 16x12,17x10, 18x8, 19x8 16x10 16x8 Mustang
30cc-36cc 18x8 18x8, 18x10, 19x8, 20x6 16x10, 17x10 16x8 Mustang,17x8 Mustang
36cc-40cc 20x8 18x10, 18x12, 20x10 18x10, 19x10 18x10
50-55cc 20x10 18x12, 20x10, 22x8, 23x8 19x10, 20x10, 21x11.5 19x8 Mustang
60cc 22x10 20x12, 22x12, 23x10, 24x8 21x10 20x10
70cc 24x8 24x10, 26x8 22x10, 22x12 22x10
80cc 24x10 24x12, 26x10 22x12, 23x12, 24x10 22x10
85cc 26x10 26x12, 27x10, 28x10N 24x12, 25x10, 25x12 22x10
100cc 26x10 26x12, 27x10, 28x10 25x10, 25x12 24x10
111cc 26x10 26x12, 27x10, 28x10 25x12, 26x12 24x10
120cc 26x10 26x12, 27x10, 28x10 25x12, 26x12 24x10
150cc 30x10 30x12, 32x10, 32x12 28x12, 28.5x12 26x10 Mustang
160cc 32x10 30x12, 32x12 28.5x12, 29x12 NA
170cc 32x10 32x12, 33x11 29x12, 30x12 NA
200cc 4 cyl 32x12 32x12 30x12, 31x12 NA
210cc 34x12 34x14, 35x10, 35x12, 36x12 31x12, 32x12 NA
222cc 4 cyl 32x12 32x14, 33x11 31x12 NA
320cc 4 cyl 36x12 36x16, 39x12 34x10, 34x12 NA
420cc 4 cyl 39x12 36x18, 38x16 36x16 NA

Prop Chart for 4-stroke Radial Engines
Engine Size Break-in Prop 2 Blade Propeller Choices 3 Blade Propeller Choices 4 Blade Propeller Choices
150cc 26x16 28x12, 30x10 26x14, 27x10 23x14, 24x10
215cc 32x12 32x14, 32x18 32x12, 32x14 28x14, 28x16
250cc 32x14 32x18, 32x22 32x14, 32x16 28x16, 28x18
400cc 40x22 40x22 36x16 NA
800cc 48x22 50x22 40x26 NA

General Propellers:

Break-in propellers will lightly load the engine. During the first few hours of running a new engine there is more friction between the piston, piston ring, and cylinder wall as well as all other moving components like bearings. During this time it is important to keep the heat down in the engine due to other factors such as running a large prop and flying at low airspeeds or hovering. If you don't break in the engine properly, it will never perform well. Using a small prop and keeping the plane moving is best. For gas engines, do not break-in the engine on the ground. Make sure the engine runs reliably first! This can take as long as is required, but don't run the engine on the ground in an effort to break it in. There is not enough air to cool the engine. Glow engines have 20% oil in the fuel which cools the engine tremendously. Gas engines don't use a lot of oil, so they need really big cooling fins. That's the main reason gas engines are so heavy, they need much bigger cooling fins than glow engines do. Use a petroleum based oil for break in, then switch to the more slippery synthetic oils later. Synthetics are too slippery and don't allow the parts to wear in quickly so compression will be low which causes poor idle, transition and top end power.

Keep in mind the following!

Balance the prop. Yes, they should be factory balanced, but are you going to take their word for it? Remember balancing the hub is not a big concern. Put the heavy side of the prop down when the piston is at the top so that it acts like a counterweight. Many engine manufacturers use too small of a counterweight to keep the overall weight of the engine down. The prop can help. Don't tighten the prop so much that you crush it. Neither wood nor CF can hold up to over tightening. When the prop starts to crush, you are tightening it too much. Check the prop after the first flight, and if it is loose, check it after every flight until it needs no further tightening. All that vibration will seat the prop. If the prop is loose, it is not good!

Drilling holes in the prop for the 2, 4, 5 or whatever screws can weaken the prop. The prop can fly apart, so don't let anyone stand in front or to the side of the prop when running the engine. If you run the engine in a garage, it might go right through your Ferrari, so it's best to run in out of doors. Don't throw anything into the engine (like a rag) to kill it. You could do serious damage.

If the prop has tip damage, you can sand the damage off and make it even in some cases. Balance the prop when you are finished. If the prop is wood, and it is split, discard the prop. Don't let the spinner cone contact the prop. It will gouge it.

When installing your prop, special techniques must be employed. Just tightening up the prop bolts one time won't do it! You will lose your prop on the second or third flight otherwise! When you lose your prop, you lose your spinner too!! Check out the video of a prop coming off in flight. Go to the video page.

Proper procedure for tightening prop bolts:
1) Obtain thin steel washers and place them under the heads of the socket head screws. The heads of the socket head screws without the washers will gall the aluminum thrust washer and will prevent full tightening of the socket head screws.

2) Tighten the screws a little at a time. Tightening one screw as much as possible without the others being tight will cause uneven pressure on the thrust washer hub. Tighten one screw some, then go to the screw 180 degrees from it and tighten that screw. Go around and around several times. Don't overtighten so that you crush the prop.

3) Fly the plane for 5 minutes. You can leave off the spinner cone (of course have the backplate in place).

4) Land the plane and retighten all the prop bolts. (Not too tight!)

5) Fly a standard length flight.

6) Retighten all the prop bolts

7) Fly one more time

8) Retighten all the prop bolts. If they don't move this time (they should not). Then you have two options: a) leave it alone or b) remove one screw at a time, put on some very light thread locking compound (not too strong!), and reinstall the screws one at a time. It is not necessary to use thread locking compound, but if you lost a prop before and now you are jaded, this is your extra insurance.

9) Check the bolts every once in awhile, though the prop should never loosen if you followed the above procedure.

TBM offers the following propeller types. Following is a comparison of them in general terms.

  • Wood
    • TBM
    • Xoar
    • Bambula
    • MSC
    • ZDZ
Xoar, Bambula and ZDZ props look fairly similar in shape and the performance is similar as well. Whichever has the best price may be the best choice. Xoar is the largest manufacturer in the world and they offer hundreds if not thousands of unique props so if you need something exotic, try Xoar. TBM props are slightly wider so the RPMs and noise are reduced slightly. MSC are wider still, so the RPMs and noise are very much reduced, so much in fact, that the next size smaller prop is required in some cases and even with the smaller diameter, the noise is significantly less. Laminated props are built up from several layers of wood which makes them much harder, stiffer and stronger as well as being very beautiful looking. Laminated props are a little more expensive but a very nice option.

  • Composite
    • APC
APC and a few other manufacturers offer composite props of various shapes. Many of the composite props offer similar performance. APC offers good quality at competitive prices.

  • Carbon Fiber
    • Mejzlik
    • PT-Models
    • Biela
    • ZM
Most CF props are made in Europe. CF props are so highly engineered that China does not currently have the capability to manufacture them in large sizes. All our CF offerings are very high quality. Mejzlik offers narrower blades which offer more rpm and noise. Biela offers beautifully painted props which are great for a scale look. These 4 and most of their competitors offer fairly similar performance at fairly similar prices. The prices for CF props are significantly more than prices for wooden props, but the extra price is worth it for many people. CF props offer less noise, higher efficiency, longer life and better looks than wooden props.


Allied countries of the United States regarding shipment of any products from TBM

WARNING - Gasoline and Turbine powered R/C model aircraft are not manufactured to withstand unlimited G's. Any R/C model aircraft can fail, be it a wing folding up or a fuselage breaking in half under too high of a load. Just as any full size aircraft, model R/C aircraft have a maximum G rating. Because you are not in the plane flying it and experiencing the G's and reading the G-meter, it is more difficult to judge the G's on the aircraft, and it is very easy to exceed the limits of the aircraft. Understand that if you perform a snap roll, parachute, wall, blender, knife edge loop, or pull hard on the elevator at almost any speed, you can be putting in excess of 15 G's, even in excess of 30 G's, and most aircraft can only designed to take 10-12 G's. If you perform any violent maneuver, you can break your plane. When I perform hard maneuvers, especially for the first time on an airframe, I am prepared for a failure and am prepared for it as best I can be. This mainly includes performing the maneuver far enough away from spectators that in event of a failure that I am not endangering others. In addition, be prepared for the manufacturer to not pay for a new airframe which is broken during flight. It is common practice for any manufacturer to not replace an airframe which breaks in the air or upon landing. I have only seen manufacturers replace airframes when they have received many of the same failures and the manufacturer determines that there was a design or manufacturing error. If you break an airframe, and you are the only one to do so, then it is probably not the fault of the manufacturer. Please fly safely, and avoid full throttle operation other than at low airspeeds.

R/C model jets, warbirds, aerobatic planes, DJI S1000 Octocopter, and UAV Unmanned Aerial Vehicles to name a few are not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and property damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites. Follow all manufacturer instructions included with your plane, radio, servo's, batteries and engine. Aircraft manufacturers guarantees each kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component assembled by the customer. All parts of high stress must be inspected and reinforced if necessary by a competent builder. Some parts should be glued again. High stress areas such as firewalls, motor boxes, wing mounts, landing gear mounts, etc., are areas of high concern. Seek help if necessary. In not case shall TBM be liable for the cost of any product it offers which is not manufactured by TBM. The liability to the manufacturer cannot exceed the original cost of the purchased item. Further, TBM reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that TBM has no control over the final assembly or materials used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. The kit manufacturers have provided you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and fly ability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model. It is the user's responsibility to inspect each component for worthiness.