Bambula Wooden Propellers Subcategories

 
     
     
More AccessoriesAccessories

 

Bambula Wooden Propellers

Bambula Power Props

Finally a SENSIBLY Priced, High Quality Power Propeller

These high quality power propellers are made in Europe from the highest quality Northern European Beech. A wood that is known for its tight grain and stability under load. The wide chord gives maximum pulling power and great down line braking.

Please notice that the Bambula propeller have square tips. These Props do not "rip" or "Sing" and because of this they are much quieter than other wood props.

Bambula propellers are suitable for aerobatics or general sport flying. We have tested these props extensively and we are more than pleased with the results. We have set the pricing to be lower than any quality prop available.

You will not be disappointed with your choice of a Bambula Power Prop.*

*Do not expect these props to be "RPM Kings". Bambula Power props do what props are supposed to: MOVE AIR! (or through it; depends on your point of view) because of this your engine will experience a heavier load and will not turn as many RPMs as it did with other props. Bambula Power Props provide maximum PULL POWER.



Prop Chart for 2-stroke Glow Engines

Engine Size

Break-in Prop

Propeller Choices

.90 - .91

14x6

13x8,15x6,16x5

1.08

16x6

15x8,18x5

1.20

16x8

16x10,18x5,18x6

1.50

18x6

18x8,20x6

1.80

18x8

18x10,20x6,20x8,22x6

2.00

20x8

18x10,20x6,20x10,22x6



Prop Chart for 4-stroke Glow Engines

Engine Size

Break-in Prop

Propeller Choices

.90

14x6

13x6,14x8,15x6,16x6

1.20

16x6

14x8,15x6,15x8,16x8,17x6,18x5,18x6

1.60

18x6

15x6,15x8,16x8,18x6,18x8,20x6

2.40

18x10

18x12,20x8,20x10

2.70

20x8

18x10,18x12,20x10

3.00

20x10

18x12,20x10



Prop Chart for 2-stroke Gas Engines

Engine Size

Break-in Prop

2 Bladed Propeller Choices

 3 Bladed Propeller Choices

17cc

14x6

13x6,14x7

NA

20cc

16x8

15x10,16x10,17x8

16x10

26cc

18x6

16x12,18x8,20x6

16x10

32cc

18x10

18x12,20x8

17x10

40cc

20x8

18x10,18x12,20x10

18x10, 19x10

50cc

20x10

18x12,20x10, 22x8, 23x8

19x10, 20x10, 21x11.5

60cc

22x10

20x12, 22x12, 23x10, 24x8

21x10

70cc

24x8

24x10, 26x8

22x10, 22x12

80cc

24x10

24x12, 26x10

22x12, 23x12, 24x10

85cc

26x10

26x12, 27x10, 28x10N

24x12, 25x10, 25x12

100cc

26x10

26x12, 27x10, 28x10

25x10, 25x12

111cc

26x10

26x12, 27x10, 28x10

25x12, 26x12

150cc

30x10

30x12, 32x10, 32x12

28x12, 28.5x12

160cc

32x10

30x12, 32x12

28.5x12, 29x12

170cc

32x10

32x12, 33x11

29x12, 30x12

200cc 4 cyl

32x12

32x12

30x12, 31x12

210cc

34x12

34x14, 35x10, 35x12, 36x12

31x12, 32x12

222cc 4 cyl

32x12

32x14, 33x11

31x12

320cc 4 cyl

36x12

36x16, 39x12

34x10, 34x12

420cc 4 cyl

39x12

36x18, 38x16

36x16



Prop Chart for 4-stroke Radial Engines

Engine Size

Break-in Prop

2 Blade Propeller Choices

3 Blade Propeller Choices

4 Blade Propeller Choices

150cc

26x16

28x12, 30x10

 26x14, 27x10

24x10

215cc

32x10

32x12, 32x14, 32x18

32x14

28x14, 28x16

250cc

32x12

32x14, 32x10, 34x10

32x14

28x16, 28x18

400cc

38x20

38x25, 40x18, 40x25

36x16

NA

800cc

48x22

50x22

40x26

NA


General Propellers:

Break-in propellers will lightly load the engine. During the first few hours of running a new engine there is more friction between the piston, piston ring, and cylinder wall as well as all other moving components like bearings. During this time it is important to keep the heat down in the engine due to other factors such as running a large prop and flying at low airspeeds or hovering. If you don't break in the engine properly, it will never perform well. Using a small prop and keeping the plane moving is best. For gas engines, do not break-in the engine on the ground. Make sure the engine runs reliably first! This can take as long as is required, but don't run the engine on the ground in an effort to break it in. There is not enough air to cool the engine. Glow engines have 20% oil in the fuel which cools the engine tremendously. Gas engines don't use a lot of oil, so they need really big cooling fins. That's the main reason gas engines are so heavy, they need much bigger cooling fins than glow engines do. Use a petroleum based oil for break in, then switch to the more slippery synthetic oils later. Synthetics are too slippery and don't allow the parts to wear in quickly so compression will be low which causes poor idle, transition and top end power.


Keep in mind the following!

Balance the prop. Yes, they should be factory balanced, but are you going to take their word for it? Remember balancing the hub is not a big concern. Put the heavy side of the prop down when the piston is at the top so that it acts like a counterweight. Many engine manufacturers use too small of a counterweight to keep the overall weight of the engine down. The prop can help. Don't tighten the prop so much that you crush it. Neither wood nor CF can hold up to over tightening. When the prop starts to crush, you are tightening it too much. Check the prop after the first flight, and if it is loose, check it after every flight until it needs no further tightening. All that vibration will seat the prop. If the prop is loose, it is not good!

Drilling holes in the prop for the 2, 4, 5 or whatever screws can weaken the prop. The prop can fly apart, so don't let anyone stand in front or to the side of the prop when running the engine. If you run the engine in a garage, it might go right through your Ferrari, so it's best to run in out of doors. Don't throw anything into the engine (like a rag) to kill it. You could do serious damage.

If the prop has tip damage, you can sand the damage off and make it even in some cases. Balance the prop when you are finished. If the prop is wood, and it is split, discard the prop. Don't let the spinner cone contact the prop. It will gouge it.

When installing your prop, special techniques must be employed. Just tightening up the prop bolts one time won't do it! You will lose your prop on the second or third flight otherwise! When you lose your prop, you lose your spinner too!! Check out the video of a prop coming off in flight. Go to the video page.

Proper procedure for tightening prop bolts:
1) Obtain thin steel washers and place them under the heads of the socket head screws. The heads of the socket head screws without the washers will gall the aluminum thrust washer and will prevent full tightening of the socket head screws.

2) Tighten the screws a little at a time. Tightening one screw as much as possible without the others being tight will cause uneven pressure on the thrust washer hub. Tighten one screw some, then go to the screw 180 degrees from it and tighten that screw. Go around and around several times. Don't overtighten so that you crush the prop.

3) Fly the plane for 5 minutes. You can leave off the spinner cone (of course have the backplate in place).

4) Land the plane and retighten all the prop bolts. (Not too tight!)

5) Fly a standard length flight.

6) Retighten all the prop bolts

7) Fly one more time

8) Retighten all the prop bolts. If they don't move this time (they should not). Then you have two options: a) leave it alone or b) remove one screw at a time, put on some very light thread locking compound (not too strong!), and reinstall the screws one at a time. It is not necessary to use thread locking compound, but if you lost a prop before and now you are jaded, this is your extra insurance.

9) Check the bolts every once in awhile, though the prop should never loosen if you followed the above procedure.

TBM offers the following propeller types. Following is a comparison of them in general terms.

  • Wood
    • TBM
    • Xoar
    • Bambula
    • MSC
    • ZDZ
Xoar, Bambula and ZDZ props look fairly similar in shape and the performance is similar as well. Whichever has the best price may be the best choice. Xoar is the largest manufacturer in the world and they offer hundreds if not thousands of unique props so if you need something exotic, try Xoar. TBM props are slightly wider so the RPMs and noise are reduced slightly. MSC are wider still, so the RPMs and noise are very much reduced, so much in fact, that the next size smaller prop is required in some cases and even with the smaller diameter, the noise is significantly less. Laminated props are built up from several layers of wood which makes them much harder, stiffer and stronger as well as being very beautiful looking. Laminated props are a little more expensive but a very nice option.


  • Composite
    • APC
APC and a few other manufacturers offer composite props of various shapes. Many of the composite props offer similar performance. APC offers good quality at competitive prices.


  • Carbon Fiber
    • Mejzlik
    • PT-Models
    • Biela
    • ZM
Most CF props are made in Europe. CF props are so highly engineered that China does not currently have the capability to manufacture them in large sizes. All our CF offerings are very high quality. Mejzlik offers narrower blades which offer more rpm and noise. Biela offers beautifully painted props which are great for a scale look. These 4 and most of their competitors offer fairly similar performance at fairly similar prices. The prices for CF props are significantly more than prices for wooden props, but the extra price is worth it for many people. CF props offer less noise, higher efficiency, longer life and better looks than wooden props.


Search results for: all  Search Info?
 



Bambula 16x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 16x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




16

Pitch




8

Engine




RCS 140, SV26

Weight




2oz.

$9.00
Item# (BAM168)

Out of Stock



Bambula 17x6 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 17x6 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




17

Pitch




6

Engine




AEROVATE20R

Weight




2.1oz

$14
$9.00
Item# (BAM176)

In Stock



Bambula 17x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 17x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




17

Pitch




8

Engine




AEROVATE20R

Weight




2.1oz

$14
$9.00
Item# (BAM178)

Out of Stock



Bambula 18x8 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 18x8 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




18

Pitch




8

Engine




SV26, 30cc

Weight




2.4oz.

$12.00
Item# (BAM188-LAM)

Out of Stock



Bambula 19x8 laminated wood propeller

Bambula 19x8 laminated wood propeller

DIA




19

Pitch




8

Engine




26-32cc

Weight




2.8oz

$12.00
Item# (BAM198-LAM)

Out of Stock



Bambula 20x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 20x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




20

Pitch




10

Engine




ZDZ 40

Weight




3.5oz.

$14.00
Item# (BAM2010)

In Stock



Bambula 22x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 22x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




22

Pitch




10

Engine




55-60cc, ZDZ 60

Weight




4oz.

$20.75
Item# (BAM2210)

In Stock



Bambula 22x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 22x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




22

Pitch




8

Engine




ZDZ 50cc

Weight




4oz.

$20.75
Item# (BAM228)

Out of Stock



Bambula 23x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 23x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




23

Pitch




8

Engine




50cc-57cc

Weight




4.2oz

$23.50
Item# (BAM238)

Out of Stock



Bambula 24x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 24x8 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




24

Pitch




8

Engine




ZDZ 60-80cc, blade airfoil too much for 50cc

Weight




4.2oz.

$19
$14.00
Item# (BAM248)

Out of Stock



Bambula 26x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 26x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




26

Pitch




10

Engine




80 and 100cc engines

Weight




6.1oz.

$29.00
Item# (BAM2610)

In Stock



Bambula 26x16 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 150 Radial

Bambula 26x16 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 150 Radial

DIA




26

Pitch




16

Engine




RCS 150 radial

Weight




7.3oz.

$49.00
Item# (BAM2616-LAM)

Out of Stock



Bambula 27x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 27x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




27

Pitch




10

Engine




100-111cc

Weight




Info Coming Soon!

$29.00
Item# (BAM2710)

Out of Stock



Bambula 28x10 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 28x10 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




28

Pitch




10

Engine




ZDZ 120

Weight




8.4oz.

$39.00
Item# (BAM2810-LAM)

Out of Stock



Bambula 32x12 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 32x12 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




32

Pitch




12

Engine




RCS 215 and 250 radials, ZDZ Super 160

Weight




10.2oz.

$49.00
Item# (BAM3212)

In Stock



Bambula 32x14 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 215 Radial

Bambula 32x14 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 215 Radial

DIA




32

Pitch




14

Engine




RCS 215 and 250 radials

Weight




12.4oz.

$79.00
Item# (BAM3214-LAM)

In Stock



Bambula 32x18 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 250 Radial

Bambula 32x18 Laminated Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade for RCS 250 Radial

DIA




32

Pitch




18

Engine




RCS 215 and 250 radials

Weight




13.2oz

$79.00
Item# (BAM3218-LAM)

In Stock



Bambula 34x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 34x10 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




34

Pitch




10

Engine




RCS 250 radial, ZDZ 210

Weight




11.7oz.

$59.00
Item# (BAM3410)

In Stock



Bambula 34x12 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

Bambula 34x12 Beech Wood Prop, 2 blade

DIA




34

Pitch




12

Engine




210cc, ZDZ 210

Weight




14.5oz

$59
$55.00
Item# (BAM3412)

In Stock



 


WARNING - Gasoline and Turbine powered R/C model aircraft are not manufactured to withstand unlimited G's. Any R/C model aircraft can fail, be it a wing folding up or a fuselage breaking in half under too high of a load. Just as any full size aircraft, model R/C aircraft have a maximum G rating. Because you are not in the plane flying it and experiencing the G's and reading the G-meter, it is more difficult to judge the G's on the aircraft, and it is very easy to exceed the limits of the aircraft. Understand that if you perform a snap roll, parachute, wall, blender, knife edge loop, or pull hard on the elevator at almost any speed, you can be putting in excess of 15 G's, even in excess of 30 G's, and most aircraft can only designed to take 10-12 G's. If you perform any violent maneuver, you can break your plane. When I perform hard maneuvers, especially for the first time on an airframe, I am prepared for a failure and am prepared for it as best I can be. This mainly includes performing the maneuver far enough away from spectators that in event of a failure that I am not endangering others. In addition, be prepared for the manufacturer to not pay for a new airframe which is broken during flight. It is common practice for any manufacturer to not replace an airframe which breaks in the air or upon landing. I have only seen manufacturers replace airframes when they have received many of the same failures and the manufacturer determines that there was a design or manufacturing error. If you break an airframe, and you are the only one to do so, then it is probably not the fault of the manufacturer. Please fly safely, and avoid full throttle operation other than at low airspeeds.

R/C model jets, warbirds, and aerobatic planes to name a few are not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and property damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites. Follow all manufacturer instructions included with your plane, radio, servo's, batteries and engine. Aircraft manufacturers guarantees each kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component assembled by the customer. All parts of high stress must be inspected and reinforced if necessary by a competent builder. Some parts should be glued again. High stress areas such as firewalls, motor boxes, wing mounts, landing gear mounts, etc., are areas of high concern. Seek help if necessary. In not case shall TBM be liable for the cost of any product it offers which is not manufactured by TBM. The liability to the manufacturer cannot exceed the original cost of the purchased item. Further, TBM reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that TBM has no control over the final assembly or materials used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. The kit manufacturers have provided you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and fly ability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model. It is the user's responsibility to inspect each component for worthiness.