We offer wood and CF propellers.The advantages of wooden propellers: they are lighter in the larger sizes, they spool up quicker, they are much less expensive, they break more easily so an impact with the ground will not bend the engine crankshaft as easily. The disadvantage is that in sizes of 28″ and up have been that the wood is more flexible so it is more noisy and loses power at full throttle, however, the 28″ and 32″ NX props in wood are treated to be stiffer and thus quieter. In conclusion the NX wood props are better in performance since they spool up quicker yet they cost less. The main advantages of the CF propellers are that they look nice, and being heavier (in the larger sizes) help the engine idle more smoothly due to the flywheel effect. Being stronger they can take a nose over in the grass without breaking a little better than wood.
These props are the quietest props on the market today. They are produced from CF so they are very stiff. They are heavier than wooden props. The two-blade props are very efficient while the three-blade props aren’t as efficient as the two-blade props. A three blade prop always seems to be in the way when you’re transporting or working on your plane. The selling points for these props is that they are extremely quiet and they look good. Use a smaller prop for freestyle (wooden preferred) and a larger prop for sequence flying. Mejzlik props are slightly wider than Air Models props so a slightly smaller prop is in order. The Mejzlik are less expensive as well. They are hard to come by, so they are not always in stock.
|18″||8″, 10″||1.6 – 1.8||4 oz||$37|
|19″||8″||1.8 – 2.1||4 oz||$39|
|22″||8″ 10″ 12″||50cc||5 oz||$46|
|24″||12″||60-70 cc||7 oz||$51|
80cc: Use a 24×12 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 26×10.
100cc: Use a 27×10 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 28×10 2 blade or 25×12 or 26×12 3-blade. Use the 2-blade for better 3D. Use the 3-blade for quiter operation and smoother acceleration.
150cc: Use a 31×10 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 30×12 or 32×10 2-blade or 28.5×12 3-blade. Use the 2-blade for better 3D. Use the 3-blade for quiter operation and smoother acceleration. The 30×12 is prving to be a better prop than the 32×10 in some instances. The 30×12 spools up quicker and is quieter than the 32×10.
3-Blade MEJZLIK Propellers
|24″||12″||BME-100, ZDZ-80||9.5 oz||$80|
|25″||12″||DA-100, 3W-100, BME-110
|26″||12″||DA-100, 3W-100, BME-110
planes<23 lbs with strong engines
|28.5″||12″||DA-150, 3W-150, ZDZ-160||13.5 oz||$139|
2 Blade NX Propellers
|22||8, 10||50cc||5 oz||25|
|23||8, 10||50cc||5 oz||29|
80cc: Use a 24×8 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 26×10.
100cc: Use a 26×10 or 27×10 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 28×10.
150cc: Use a 30×12 for break in. After 50-100 flights switch to a 32×11. Quique Somenzini likes the 32×11 best for a 150cc engine, so it must be good!
2-Blade MSC Propellers
Close out sale – 25% off
2 & 3 Blade Air Models Propellers
With the Mejzlik being so hard to get, we offer Air Models props. The Air Models are carbon Fiber. It is a matter of opinion whether the Mejzlik or the Air Models are better. I think that they are pretty close. One thing is for sure, the Air Models are more expensive than the Mejzlik.
|28″ (2-blade)||10″||100cc||12 oz||$115|
|25″ (3-blade)||12″||100cc||12 oz||$125|
|28″ (3-blade)||12″||150cc||18 oz||$175|
|30″ (2-blade)||12″||150cc||18 oz||$185|
PROP DRILL GUIDES
These guides ensure straight through drilling of props and spinner backplates.
HOW TO TIGHTEN A PROPELLER
When intalling your prop, special techniques must be employed. Just tightening up the prop bolts one time won’t do it! You will lose your prop on the second or third flight otherwise! See the video page of a prop coming off in flight!
Proper procedure for tightening prop bolts:
1) Obtain thin steel washers and place them under the heads of the socket head screws. The heads of the socket head screws without the washers will gall the aluminum spinner hub and will prevent full tightening of the socket head screws.
2) Tighten the screws a little at a time. Tightening one screw as much as possible without the others being tight will cause uneven pressure on the prop hub. Tighten one screw some, then go to the screw 180 degrees from it and tighten that screw. Go around and around several times. Don’t overtighten so that you crush the prop.
3) Fly the plane for 5 minutes. You can leave off the spinner cone (of course have the backplate in place).
4) Land the plane and retighten all the prop bolts. (Not too tight!)
5) Fly a standard length flight.
6) Retighten all the prop bolts
7) Fly one more time
8) Retighten all the prop bolts. If they don’t move this time (they should not). Then you have two options: a) leave it alone or b) remove one screw at a time, put on some very light thread locking compound (not too strong!), and reinstall the screws one at a time. It is not necessary to use thread locking compound, but if you lost a prop before and now you are jaded, this is your extra insurance.
9) Check the bolts every once in awhile, though the prop should never loosen if you followed the above procedure.
PROPELLER DATA FROM THE 35% von EXTRA 260 with a DA-100
1) Mejzlik 28×10: CF 2-blade, 6450 rpm, 95 db on the ground, 81 db in the air, excellent vertical acceleration out of a hover, loud howl at full throttle. Pulled out of a hover and accelerated to rather fast vertical speed…maybe 50 mph.
2) AM 26×12: CF 3-blade, 6000 rpm, 93 db on the ground, 74 db in the air, good vertical acceleration out of a hover, whispering buzz at full throttle. Pulled out of a hover and accelerated to acceptable vertical speed…maybe 30 mph.
3) AM 25×12: CF 3-blade, 6400 rpm, 92 db on the ground, 72 db in the air, good vertical acceleration out of a hover, whispering buzz at full throttle. Pulled out of a hover and accelerated to excellent vertical speed…maybe 40 mph.
4) MSC 26×10: wooden 2-blade, 6150 rpm, 93 db on the ground, 76 db in the air, good vertical acceleration out of a hover, kind of a quiet growl at full throttle. Pulled out of a hover and accelerated to acceptable vertical speed…maybe 40 mph.
5) Zinger Pro 26×10: wooden 2-blade, 6300 rpm, 92 db on the ground, 79 db in the air, fair vertical acceleration out of a hover, quiet growl at full throttle. Pulled out of a hover and accelerated to rather slow vertical speed…maybe 15 mph.
The Mejzlik 28×10 prop exhibited an ear piercing howl at high rpm at full throttle, the other 4 never exhibited the dreaded ear piercing howl. The 3 blades were noticeably quieter than the wooden 2 blades at full throttle in the air when flying straight and level, no matter what the db readings may lead you to believe. The 3-blades were exceptionally quiet. The Zinger worked great but was noticeably slower on the upline. The IMAC db limit was 96 for 2002, so all props passed this test. All seemed to torque roll about the same. Downlines all seemed similar enough. The lighter wooden props seemed to spool up marginally faster. I’d say that the two best were the AM 25×12 at $150 or the MSC 26 x 10 at $40 with the AM being quieter though much more expensive. The in air db readings were not too accurate as I just flew by at about the same height and distance, but it was difficult to be exact. The canister mufflers make the exhaust much quieter, and the MSC prop is noticeably louder than either of the three blade props. If you want the quietest plane, a 3 blade prop and the canister mufflers will make the plane very quiet.
Rod & Chris Maier’s plane with a Mejzlik propeller
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